Hello everyone. I just joined. Have been wanting a new bike for touring and after 2 weeks of reading much Snowbum material, (my eyes are bleeding), an airhead is the bike for me. I live near Houston and will be riding mostly on I-10 to El Paso. It is close to 750 miles and 550 of those miles are 80 mph speed limit.
My concerns are maintaining a high speed for many hours from sea level to the mountains. Riding position and fatigue. I am 5 10. 32 inseam and 35 arms. Also is there a way to put some type of highway pegs on an airhead. From past long rides the ability to change leg position has been a real blessing.
I like the look of the R100RS but feel the RT may be a more comfortable fit. I do have fairly long arms but it seems there may be some wrist fatigue with leaning to the bars on the RS.
Welcome aboard !
If you like smooth riding, reliable machinery, then you've made the correct choice. I will second your vote for an RT and there are plenty around to choose from. The major differences you will find between the RS and the RT is 1) price and 2) handlebar position.
The RS is highly sought after and they do bring premium prices. Better to start with a RT that you can find for half the price in good or better shape. They are much more abundant too. Start with your local CraigsList or visit IBMWR.
The RT also accepts many more handlebar shapes than the RS. So you can easily dial in your personal comfort by fitting your favorite bars. Just remember that the BMW uses 22mm bars, not the larger 7/8 inch variety. All European bars and most Japanese bars are 22mm standard, so this isn't a hard search.
With your short inseam you may wish for a flatter, lower seat, like a Corbin. A lot of RTs are going to come with a modified seat of some sort. I suggest you ride what the bike comes with and see if you like it.
Forward pegs are going to be hard to utilize with the lower RT fairing panels in place. I find the relaxed leg position of the BMWs to be extremely comfortable, and very handy when crossing RR tracks or other road hazards. Don't judge them before you ride with them awhile. I think the stock position will grow on you.
🙂
Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.
Hey, I just found a nice, yellow, RT in San Antonio. What caught my eye is that this bike has been updated with a K model front end, which will handle and stop much better. Handlebar brake master cylinder too. Looks to have a high-end touring seat and bags already fitted. Mismatched mag wheels though.
Worth a look see. Look him up.
Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.
Thanks Wobbly. https://austin.craigslist.org/mcy/6047884014.html If this is the one the flat side Mikunis kill it for me. I live at sea level and want to go the mountains with no jet changes. The Bings really excel at that. They use them on airplane engines.
https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/mcy/6075388329.html and https://sanantonio.craigslist.org/mcy/6042047374.html are a couple of interesting RS bikes but it must be a chore to change up switch gear, throttle cables, clutch cables and/or lines, and brake lines.
Thanks for your help. It seems there are a lot of differences between years and models. For every question answered I have two new questions.
I may swoop down and buy one of those RS for myself !!
But that would require you to buy my RT !! 😆
Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.
Was reading posts on another forum and several riders with back problems that like the forward lean of the RS. I have a deteriorating lower disc that causes mild discomfort on my current bike which has a straight up seating posture. At age 57 I do not see it getting better. Have seen a few RS bikes with 2" bar backs. Can they be used with stock cables? I am thinking about buying an RS and going to bar backs if needed. I can always get rid of it and get an RT later. Do the aftermarket seats with the backrest help back pain?
I have been given to understand that the bars from a K75S will improve the riding position if you knock a 1/2 inch off the end of each side. I am also 57 years old and sold an R100RS with OEM bars and a Corbin seat last fall. I am 6'3" and 240lbs. I found the riding position agreeable with my low back, but tiring on my shoulders and wrists. I am keeping my R75/5, which is to me, the perfect motorcycle.
former Airmarshal, IL.
Several things you need to know that can't be learned from the literature....
• The RS and the RT are basically the exact same machine. The big differences were compression ratios, fairing and handlebars. You can convert one to the other fairly easy. I have done this myself.
• The RS is the only sport bike I know of that lets the handlebars swing INSIDE the confines of the fairing. That means your choice of handlebars is limited to less than 5 bars total. "Bar-backs" with the standard bars are a popular option, but this means the standard center cushion and steering dampener control knob must be removed. You'll have far more bar and riding position choices with the RT because of the more "open" cockpit.
• Generally, cable re-routing will allow you to use bar-backs without a cable change. However, BMW cables are available in several lengths, and at ~$20 each are one of the better parts "deals". So don't let cables become a deciding factor.
• The RS and RT fairing share many of the same parts including all 3 lower parts and some of the central upper. The big fairing differences are the steel support frame, L&R uppers, and the windshield. I swapped mine because I like the RS windshield position much better, but now I'm stuck with fewer bar choices. 🙁
IMHO, riding comfort breaks down into 4 areas....
• Seat. You want a broad flat seat (like a Corbin), or a saddle that cradles your butt (like a Day Long). Greater contact area is the key.
• Bars. I want my hands at a natural position that allows the torso to slightly lean into the wind.
• Windscreen. I don't like to be buffeted by the wind, but I like enough air coming over the top of the screen to 1) take the weight off my palms, and 2) prevent "dead air" pockets inside the cockpit, especially in August.
• Rear suspension. The forces that compress the spine all come up though the rear suspension. Really good rear shocks that are sprung correctly are worth every penny. Generally, if your shock supplier doesn't ask for your body weight, then you don't want those shocks.
Hope this helps.
Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.
Helps a lot Wobbly. Good to know there are affordable options. Basically I will probably have to tweak an RS or RT. Think I will buy the first decent one I can get at a decent price, get a feel for it, and go from there. Definitely going with two rear shock set up. I like the look of the older bikes better.
Thanks for the bar suggestion 8053. I would not have thought about K bars. That R75 is super smooth but don't think it would cruise 90mph at higher elevations. Was considering R80RT but too many people have nixed it for what I want to do.
The RT also accepts many more handlebar shapes than the RS. So you can easily dial in your personal comfort by fitting your favorite bars.
i'd say about the RS. the RT can have many bars
i have a set of riser ~ bar backs and K75 /100 bars on my R90SRS and the comfort is V-good. the bar ends don't even reach the fairing in a turn . . . close tho
• The RS is the only sport bike I know of that lets the handlebars swing INSIDE the confines of the fairing. That means your choice of handlebars is limited to less than 5 bars total. "Bar-backs" with the standard bars are a popular option, but this means the standard center cushion and steering dampener control knob must be removed. You'll have far more bar and riding position choices with the RT because of the more "open" cockpit.
again the stock steering damper can be used as stock. some mods are needed and when you get this far contact me and i'll discuss it
• Generally, cable re-routing will allow you to use bar-backs without a cable change. However, BMW cables are available in several lengths, and at ~$20 each are one of the better parts "deals". So don't let cables become a deciding factor.
I have because my bike is absolutely completely NON stock have had to make my own cables for the brake system as well as carbs chokes. but this is not my first dance so it's a learned process.
Seat. You want a broad flat seat (like a Corbin), or a saddle that cradles your butt (like a Day Long). Greater contact area is the key.
i have 3, all bought off ebay and repaired / modified to fit an RS .... a corbin, an RMS and a Russell
RMS . . . . . . [ w/ Russell is my fav ]
Seat. You want a broad flat seat (like a Corbin), or a saddle that cradles your butt (like a Day Long). Greater contact area is the key.
i have 3, all bought off ebay and repaired / modified to fit an RS .... a corbin, an RMS and a Russell
RMS . . . . . . [ w/ Russell is my fav ]
Seat. You want a broad flat seat (like a Corbin), or a saddle that cradles your butt (like a Day Long). Greater contact area is the key.
some say the Corbin is a HARD SEAT
Rick Mayer is good but NLA
Russell is the best day long seat make ... .... imho
Seat. You want a broad flat seat (like a Corbin), or a saddle that cradles your butt (like a Day Long). Greater contact area is the key.
some say the Corbin is a HARD SEAT
Rick Mayer is good but NLA
Russell is the best day long seat make ... .... imho
Thanks for the info Harry. Much appreciated.
Generally, cable re-routing will allow you to use bar-backs without a cable change. However, BMW cables are available in several lengths, and at ~$20 each are one of the better parts "deals". So don't let cables become a deciding factor.
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