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Tossing the Shinkos

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Bill Gorry
(@guaire)
Posts: 14
Active Member
Topic starter
 

What I said, tossing the Shinkos. Looking to hear from experienced rubber scuffers here. I want to get more traction, especially on wet pavement. My ride is a 1983 R80RT. Current rubber is Front 100/90 19 and Rear 120/90 18, Shinko tires. I went to my local shop to check availability.
Looks the ME888s are available 110/90 19. The ME888 is also available in 110/90 18. I have run Metzlers on other machines.
Also available are Pirellis rear, 120/90 18R MT66. and the MT66-F 100/90S 19.
I rode the MT66 set up on a 1982 Honda Nighthawk 450. Good sticky tires with a nice profile. I could stuff them into a turn with no problems. Pretty good for a bike with a tube/pressed steel frame.
Anyone here have experience, opinions on either of these two set ups, I would appreciate hearing from you.
Cheers,
Bill

 
Posted : 12/18/2017 18:23
Brian Swanick
(@thundermotive)
Posts: 76
Estimable Member
 

Bill, I'll be tire shopping in a few months for my '83 R100RS so it will be interesting to read along here.. What type of riding are you planning on? Metzler recommends the Sportec Klassik and the Lasertec. I'm not sure what the number designations are for these. They both appear to be sport touring. I see a lot of Lasertecs on BMW's.
The Michelin Pilot Activ is available in 3.25/19 4.20/18 and looks like a more modern tread design without the center groove. I was wondering if anyone has run them on an airhead.
I plan to do 75% day touring/ commuting and 25% two up and camping riding.

Brian

 
Posted : 12/18/2017 22:29
Richard W
(@wobbly)
Posts: 2597
Member
 

The Michelin Pilot Activ is available in 3.25/19 4.20/18 and looks like a more modern tread design without the center groove. I was wondering if anyone has run them on an airhead.

Brian -
I tried the Michelins and they handled great, but I only got 3500 miles out of the rear tire on an RT. That's riding 50-60mph one-up with light/no luggage. All 200 mile fun rides on back roads, no interstate.

The best mileage tire I've found is the Bridgestone dual compound Spitfire S11, which handles very nicely. I'm currently trying the next one up in the same lineup, the Bridgestone BT-45, also a dual compound with slightly better handling.

Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.

 
Posted : 12/18/2017 22:44
Richard W
(@wobbly)
Posts: 2597
Member
 

What I said, tossing the Shinkos.

Bill -
I agree with you. A riding buddy put a pair of "Stinkos" on his touring bike. The bike immediately started weaving over 45mph !! At 60 it grew worse and he could barely keep the bike in a single traffic lane. The problem was internal to the tires, and not balance or improper mounting as we first suspected. Very close inspection of both tires revealed no external issues. As soon as that set of tires was taken off, the weaving stopped.

Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.

 
Posted : 12/18/2017 22:53
Bill Gorry
(@guaire)
Posts: 14
Active Member
Topic starter
 

Sounds good. I'll be ordering the Activs today.
Keeping the rubber side down is really important.
"Real motorcyclists don't need tattoos. We have bruises."

 
Posted : 12/19/2017 13:57
Brian Swanick
(@thundermotive)
Posts: 76
Estimable Member
 

Does anyone have a mileage report on the Lasertecs? I've got a few months of cold weather here so I'll be interested to see how Bill likes the Activs. Thanks for the info on the Bridgestones Wobbly. I'll check them out as well.

 
Posted : 12/19/2017 23:35
Bill Gorry
(@guaire)
Posts: 14
Active Member
Topic starter
 

Victory on the front tire. It's on.
I could use some advice on how to get the rear tire out. It has been pulled away from the brake and hub. Trying to get it out the left side is a squeeze between the fender and the luggage rack. The luggage rack seems to be welded into the rear sub-frame. Even if I remove the shock top nut and bolt, it will still be welded to the rear sub-frame. My manual skips the '83 R80RT. Looks like I have to remove the rear fender, or the rear sub-frame to get the wheel/tire out.
Anyone have the best way to get this wheel of the bike and into the shop?
Cheers,
Bill

 
Posted : 12/22/2017 20:55
Robert Whigham
(@1872)
Posts: 126
Estimable Member
 

A 2 by under the center stand gives a little more clearance. Seems like bag mounts have to be removed but I''m old and can't remember.

Bob

 
Posted : 12/23/2017 12:11
Robert Whigham
(@1872)
Posts: 126
Estimable Member
 

A 2 by under the center stand gives a little more clearance. Seems like bag mounts have to be removed but I''m old and can't remember.

Bob

 
Posted : 12/23/2017 12:11
Bill Gorry
(@guaire)
Posts: 14
Active Member
Topic starter
 

Thanks, Bob. I can picture how that would help to make some clearance.
Bill

 
Posted : 12/23/2017 12:14
Bill Gorry
(@guaire)
Posts: 14
Active Member
Topic starter
 

Finally got the bugger out yesterday. I removed the left luggage rack, the left shock unit, the left muffler. Then all I had to do was squeeze the tire with a carpenter's clamp to force the thing out.
The worst mess ever. Why put on a crappy compound tire that's too big???
Thank you for the help, Bob, in telling me that it could be done.

Merry Christmas,
Bill

 
Posted : 12/24/2017 19:45

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