Greetings:
Yesterday I swapped my 2003 Honda ST 1300 for a 1971 R/75 5. I drove from my home in Colorado to Minnesota trailering the Honda and now I'm on the road back to Colorado trailering the airhead. After leaving St. Paul today I traveled to Judson's Cycle near Mankato and the owner, Ron, was kind enough to drop what he was doing and help me with a charging issue that was resolved by discovering that the diode board was simply gone. He also spent some time massaging the carbs and the bike runs much better. It was parked from 1985 until a few months ago and needs a little sorting.
The airhead reminds of of my vintage Volvos with its rugged simplicity. I've wanted one for some time.
This is my 50th year of riding and I've toured the U.S. as well as most of Canada and a good chunk of Mexico. My first touring bike was a 66 Honda 305 Superhawk and my last one the ST. I've also ridden many miles on the trails and over the passes in Colorado, Utah, and New Mexico on my various thumpers. For a good many years I visited my home hospice patients on my Bandit or my Wee Strom. Since the early 70's I've done my own maintenance, starting with my Norton.
I'll be reviewing the tech stuff as I sort the bike, and coming to this forum to learn and share.
Photos to follow.
Welcome aboard !!
Your R75/5 has more years of very enjoyable service in store for you. I also rescued my "new" BMW out of a long-term storage, and found that things kept improving for well over a month as more miles accumulated. The new detergent fuels will eventually get the carbs thoroughly clean and do the most good. But rings and other bits have to re-seat and get used to being used again too.
One area that really helped my machine was updating the front forks and changing the rear shocks. Using a full synthetic fork oil, like Bel-Ray or similar is suggested. You might also look at progressive fork springs. Similarly, rear dampening is of immense importance. Don't let the price of modern shock absorbers put you off of replacing worn out rear units, if needed.
Congrats and happy riding.
Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.
Highly recommend the Thunderchild diode boards !!
Fork servicing is definitely on the list. Sorting the carbs so I can at least ride is on the menu now. I haven't had a chance to take a look at the rear shocks but I note that they're Konis.
I don't know which diode board I installed. It was just handed to me so I could get back on the road and I was grateful for it.
► Forks only need draining and refilling. ATF was originally used, but a synthetic "fork oil" of about 8W to 10W is kinder on the old seals. Recommend you do this outside as the "blast" of oil is rather hard to control/ contain. Do this again after 500 miles.
► If the bike will idle somewhat, then using "high octane" fuels with Techron and the like, or adding anti-ethanol cleaning agents to your fuel, will finish the job as you ride. The ethanol scum is all over inside the tank, petcocks, fuel lines, and float bowls. I highly suspect cleaners like SeaFoam are too strong and eat out the o-rings. Instead, try running StarTron from your local motorboat supply.
► Koni shocks are first rate, but the very name tells me they are not brand new. New shocks are filled with nitrogen to reduce foaming. Shocks that have sat unused may have dry seals and loose this gas. Ride them and see, while watching for rear end wiggles or harshness.
► Brand or type diode board doesn't really matter as long as the battery is staying charged. (If doing it again, there are certainly good, better, best. But for now... "run what you brung".) Be sure and watch the battery water level the first few weeks, and be aware of tale tell signs of low battery voltage.
These boards are "blown" when you remove the front engine cover to access the points or alternator without first disconnecting one of the battery leads.
► Time to drain the oils as a lot of scum may have broken loose due to being ridden and heated. Water may have condensed in the drive housings. 20W50 Vavoline VR1 (non-synthetic) in the engine; 80W/90 gear oil in the gearbox, drive shaft, and final drive. Change the oil filter next time.
► All drum brakes, right ?? Good. No brake fluids to replace !!
Hope this helps !
Owning an old Airhead is easy.
Keeping an old Airhead running great is the true test.
Bob,
Welcome aboard!! AND welcome to the Airhead community!!
Your R75 is a beauty!!
radar
Radar, 7915, is the man who spent hours with me this afternoon fussing with my R/75 and making it run so much better. Thanks again Don.
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