Trying

to add photo again.

I had the same bike. I had the head repaired at about 45,000 miles. It needed guides, seals, one exhaust valve and lapping. It ran fine before and after on no lead premium. Sold it with 88,000 and it was running well. If it wasn't for the front drum brake, I might be riding today.

Thank you for responding.
Can you give me the dates of your ownership and when you had the head work done.
Did you replace the speedometer?
I thought the one on the bike was the original judging by the condition of it's internals.
The odometer reading of the Virginia work order from 21 March 2006 indicated mileage of 19760. The mileage at the time of my purchase in September 2015 was 21475.

Are you certain this was the bike you owned?

Any further info you can provide would be very helpful.

Thanks,
Clayton

Hello Clayton,

Mine was the "Same" as in same model and year. I had the speedometer repaired at about 65K. If your carbs have a star stamped on the top they are the best. A vintage racer bought mine in 95. Said it was the fastest 750 on the track.. I think it was the star top carburetors. I also rebuilt the forks and brazed 2 or 3 of the ports that the fluid passed trough. It made a huge improvement in the handling that was mushy before and firm after. Watch out when you are riding in damp conditions. The front drum can lock up the first time its used. Thankfully, it only did it a few times on me. Scared from those experiences, I would lightly apply the front brake often in damp conditions to keep t from freezing up when I really needed it. When hot dogging in the twisties the front drum would heat up from the constant braking The hotter it became the more worthless it was. Keep your swing arm and stearing head bearings in adjustment. If you don't the possibility of asphalt poisoning rises dramatically to the point of panicicing as your riding a rubber cow that has gone bizerk. My the race for the bearings was hollowed out in the spots were they are most frequently positioned. The more wear the more severe the high speed wobble became. If it happens to you lean forward, gently apply the rear brake and keep a firm grip on the bars. If you have the bearing adjusted correctly and this happens, I would immediately replace the stearing head bearing and race. This is a great time to rebuild the forks because you'll need to remove them. If with new front bearing and race doesn't solve the woble, then the swingarm bearing should be checked. The front wheel bearing being the MOST important part on the bike needs to be inspected and repacked with at least every 20K but they last forever if cared for. I did it every other time I replaced the front tire.

These old airheads require maintenence. Keeping them in exellent mechanical condition makes them great fun to ride. Neglecting their frequent needs for adjustments and repairs is dangerous or you could be left stranded. Keep an extra throttle and clutch cable with you on long trips. The good thing is you can fix most things on the side of the road with the tools under the seat without being a master mechanic. When I sold mine it had the original pistons and rings. The only way you'll get a true estimate of your bikes history is by breaking open the engine. The 750 is a increadibly durrable engine. If you feed it full synthetic oil 15W 50W with an additive like ZMax it can take a lot of extreme riding. More extreme than the operator can withstand. Off road it's the precursor to the GS. Load it up like a pickup and take it across the hot dessert at high speeds. Clean it up and cruise around town. All around, one of the best bikes BMW built. I now ride a R750/6 with a front disk brake and fairing.

Nick